IMPORTANT NOTE: Hygiene. Proper and complete hygiene is absolutely essential to prevent diseases, infections, illness...for healthy newts! Newts are very sensitive, with porous skin which can pose a very serious problem without following basic rules of hygiene. As newt owners it is our responsibility to keep our newts' environment as clean and safe as possible. This can easily be done by following simple and imperative rules: Keep the habitat clean: Provide an effective filtration system to keep the water clean and free of harmful wastes and pollutants. Establish and follow a regular maintenance schedule. Remember, harmful bacteria thrive in unsanitary conditions.

Avoid chemicals: Never use any harmful or toxic cleansers, chemicals or detergents. Keep these pollutants away from the newts and any associated items such as food, decorations, nets, water bowls etc...Remember newts have porous skin, everything is absorbed through it directly into their system so great caution must be exercised where toxins are an issue.

Keep items separate and secure: Be sure to keep our items separate from the newts'. What is used for the newts should never be used for ourselves and vice versa. Items associated with the newts should be kept clean and sterile. Keep raw meats and other contaminants away from the newts' equipment. When cleaning decorations for example from the tank, be sure to place onto a paper towel to prevent the item from coming into direct contact with the counter top or surface. This will help prevent possible traces of cleansers which may have been used, or bacteria from raw meat products from leaving toxic residue behind. Any unused decorations or other items should be stored in a relatively clean area, away from chemical presence. Best stored in plastic Ziploc bags to further reduce the risk of accidental contamination and to prevent dust build-up as well.

Wash: Always be sure to thoroughly wash your hands with soap and lukewarm water before coming into contact with anything associated with the newts. Salmonella poisoning is a very serious and very real threat. Many fear that newts and other amphibians are the sole species which carry and transmit salmonella. Newts can be carriers, but with proper hygiene and care there is no risk. In actuality, any animal including dogs, cats and ever birds can be a carrier. Even vegetables can be infected with salmonella. Failure to clean surfaces such as counter tops or cutting boards, which have come into contact with these vegetables or raw meat products, properly would also harbour the disease. We can even transmit salmonella and other disease to our newts due to lack of simple, proper hygiene. Cleaning is the key to keeping both ourselves and our newts healthy and happy!

  HANDLING NEWTS occasionally is acceptable, but frequent handling is not recommended due to stress. Avoid excessive handling as this will eventually cause your newt to cease feeding due to high stress levels. Always wash your hands thoroughly with an antibacterial soap and warm to hot water, for at least 30 seconds before handling your newts and/or associated items. Be sure when handling to be careful as newts, especially those who are unfamiliar to you, will squirm to get free and accidentally dropping them is possible. Newts' skin is sensitive, and could easily become infected. Newts have a thin coating of skin for protection, and if handled too often with dry hands, can cause the removal of this protective layer, and will often result in infection. Also, the salt from your hands will penetrate their skin. Always handle your newts with wet hands and for short periods of time, as their skin will dry out very quickly. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards as well. NOTE: Remember that all newts take in a lot of water and associated chemicals through their skin. Therefore, never use any chemicals, cleaning solvents or disinfectants on anything associated with the newts. Everything can easily be cleaned using warm water and a clean brush or sponge. In cases of an epidemic, the entire tank should be medicated in order to destroy any bacteria present. In severe cases rocks, gravel and certain decorations can be sterilized by placing in a pot of boiling water for at least 10 minutes. Anything plastic which cannot be sterilized, as it would melt, would have to be disposed of. Any wood or other porous material would also have to be disposed of, as any parasite or bacteria cannot be sterilized out.
TRANSPORTING: Whether moving long distances or short, the key is to make the move as stress-free as possible. Plastic Critter Keepers are available at most pet retailers which are sold with a secure, well ventilated cover. Even a simple, plastic Tupperware container will suffice providing it has a suitable cover which closes securely, and small holes are added for oxygen. If desired, a background can be installed onto the container to help reduce stress. Avoid adding any large or heavy objects which could fall onto the newts and injure them. Instead, soft plastic or silk plants can be used to provide hiding places. Also, it is best not to place any water into the container in order to prevent sloshing and avoid using gravel as it would shift. However, it is vital that the newts are kept wet at all times. The best and safest method is to use wet paper towels. On long trips, frequent stops should be made to refresh or replace the paper towels as needed. Using a spray bottle of water, periodically mist to keep moist. Do not allow the paper towels to become dry. Moss is best avoided, especially for long trips, as this will draw the moisture out of the newts' body if left dry for too long. If using, moss needs to be kept moist regularly. Also, crickets or worms can be added in order to divert the newts' attention away from the stressful events.


Common plastic Critter Keeper available at most pet retailers.

MAINTENANCE:

The most effective way to ensure a clean, and safe environment for your newts is to keep a regular maintenance schedule, as wastes are continuously accumulating. Providing you have an effective mechanical, and/or well-established biological filtration system, no ammonia should be detectable, and the pH levels should only fluctuate slightly. If using a recently set up biological filtration system, the bacteria colony will take a few months to fully establish. During this time the pH and ammonia levels should be checked regularly to ensure there are no high ammonia levels and/or extreme fluctuations in the pH levels. There will be slight fluctuations, however these are not a concern. Regardless of the filter system used, these levels should be checked occasionally. The best way to determine when to tend to your aquarium is by testing the pH and ammonia levels. If any ammonia is detectable, or any sharp increase or decrease in pH will indicate this. As discussed in the pH section many factors will influence the pH level. For example, accumulating wastes will cause a sharp decrease in pH and is a good indication that maintenance is required. Eventually with the aid of an effective filtration system and regular maintenance, a constant cleaning schedule can be established, that will keep the levels in check.

GRAVEL CLEANERS are used to remove wastes trapped in the gravel, which settle and accumulate over time. Regardless of the filter system used, the gravel must be cleaned periodically. The gravel is churned inside a large tube, sucking up the wastes as well as a certain amount of water in the process. Only clean the gravel until you remove about 30% of the water. Then stop and refill.

There are many varieties of gravel cleaners, but there are only two basic types:

Python: A large tube with an attached hose, which hooks directly to your tap. This way it cleans the gravel and removes the water directly to the sink. It also has a reverse switch which allows you to refill your aquarium with ease. Water temperature is easily adjusted at the taps, and dechlorinator should be added directly into the stream of water in order to instantly remove the chlorine as it enters the aquarium. These are fairly expensive, but very handy, especially with large aquariums.
 

Vacuum or siphon: These are cheap, but you get what you pay for. In order to begin the process, the water must be siphoned, and the end of the hose immediately placed into a bucket to empty the water into. To refill, you need to dechlorinate or have previously set out one or more buckets of water. This entire process is very messy as water will be spilt, and the water must be poured in very slowly to prevent disturbing the newts and overall set up of your aquarium.


Periodically remove any decorations or ornaments, and rinse with warm water and brush with a clean toothbrush, if necessary. The filter and apparatus should be checked, and periodically dismantle, (with the exception of the Undergravel System) and clean with lukewarm water and clean toothbrush or Q-tip, in order to remove debris. Use an approved algae cleaning pad, so as not to scratch the glass, in order to remove any build-up on the inside glass surfaces of the aquarium, and water line. A gravel cleaner should be used at this point to remove excess wastes that have become imbedded in the gravel. Removal of 20 to 30 percent of the water is most effective. NEVER do a total water change. This will cause considerable stress to your newts, as the water chemistry will be drastically altered, and the biological filtration, if used, will be destroyed. When refilling, attempt to regulate the temperature as best as possible, roughly at the same temperature. Slight temperature fluctuations are bound to occur and will not abnormally affect the newts, however drastic temperature changes will cause stress. A thermometer will greatly be of aid during this temperature adjustment. Be sure to replace with dechlorinated water. The gravel can be leveled and decorations replaced.


Example of possible water conditioners or dechlorinators.

Moss and other materials commonly used in terrestrial set ups also need to be cleaned at regular intervals. Waste and ammonia will build up within these materials as it does in the water. Moss should periodically be removed and rinsed in either a bucket of clean water or via a strainer, which is faster, more efficient and reduces waste. Squeeze out excess water and repeat procedure with fresh water 2 to 3 times. Moss should be replaced with new at least every 6 months, depending on usage.

DAILY MAINTENANCE:

A net should be used to remove feces and excess food waste in order to prevent accumulation. In a more complex set up, tight corners and hard-to-reach areas, a regular net can be quite awkward and is not always feasible. In these situations, a turkey baster is recommended. Also, be sure to replace any evaporated water. Small amounts of water do not need to be dechlorinated as do large amounts, as any chlorine present will be diluted, posing no problems.





HEATING:

60F (16C) and below, would be considered extreme cold conditions. At temperatures below 40F (4C) newts will enter hibernation, and as temperatures fall below 0F (-18C), the newts will perish. This would be the only instance in which heaters would be recommended. Remember, newts prefer cool temperatures and an additional heat source is needed only if the newts are in a "cold" room. Generally room temperature, in most situations, is ideal unless of course the room temperature is below 60F (16C), which is rare. These are a few methods which can be used successfully in order to raise aquarium or terrarium temperatures:

PORTABLE ROOM HEATERS with automatic shut-off for safety can be used for external heating. These are safe and effective. Keep in mind however that this method can take some time to become effective and produce visible results. This is due to the fact that you are heating the tank externally, therefore the room temperature in which the tank is located, must be substantial in order to impact the tanks overall temperature. However, this reduces the creation of hot spots, instead allowing for an overall temperature change. Space heaters, baseboard heaters, radiators and home heating methods such as furnaces and wood stoves are also included.

INTERNAL HEATERS are another method used for heating. Although mainly used for aquariums, some models can operate successfully in as little as 2 inches of water, thus allowing these heaters to be used in the shallow water areas of terrariums as well. These provide faster and accurate results. However, adequate circulation must be provided in order to prevent hot spots. Also, it is advisable if using this method, to encase the heater in order to prevent the newts from coming into direct contact with the hot glass or the element. This is easily accomplished. Heater guards can be purchased for various models at most pet stores. Also, a rounded sponge from a filtration system, such as the sponge filter can be fitted over the heater element, thus allowing the heat to radiate but preventing the newts from coming into direct contact. Unless heat resistant, plastic is best avoided as it may become quite warm and may melt as well. Regardless, some form of heater guard should always be used, as at high temperatures, or as a result of frequent contact, newts may develop burns or sores, thus allowing for bacterial and/or fungal infections to attack the injury sites.

Most heaters can be set at a desired temperature and will automatically shut-off and turn on. Capacity and other factors such as proximity to cold air and heat ducts will determine the wattage required. 


Internal heater unit and guard.

There are also a variety of HEAT LAMPS and other types of HEATING PADS available. However, most are not suitable for newts as they will only heat a specific spot. Newts do not bask in order to warm up, as would lizards. Be cautious if using any of these methods as there are products available which are for internal use and produce avid amounts of heat. Such devices can pose serious burn hazards to the newts when in direct contact, especially if used for extensive periods of time. When using heating pads, only under-tank heating pads are preferred in order to heat the tank externally and also to eliminate the chance of the newts burning themselves on the elements. Hot rocks, commercially available for lizards and other reptiles, are best completely avoided as these produce extremely high temperatures and again, poses serious burn issues. External heating sources are preferred over the above internal methods however, caution should always be exercised when using any of these methods.  

COOLING:

More often a consideration in the captive environment. Temperatures of 80F (27C) and above would be considered extreme heat conditions. In these instances, the temperature must be lowered. High temperatures will result in bacterial and/or fungal infections. Rapid throat pulsations can indicate heat stress, and often aquatic species will leave the water, if too warm. Keep in mind that even though some species are native to fairly tropical, warm climates, newts live deep within heavily wooded areas on the forest floors, found most commonly under damp leaves and logs, close to quiet streams or ponds. Newts do not experience the extreme heat waves and humidity as we do within the urban and rural areas. Thus, cooling is often needed during summer months, as these temperatures are too warm for most species. Remember, newts prefer cool temperatures and in these situations, room temperature generally is too warm and cooling methods are essential if the temperature rises to 80F (27C) and above.

FROZEN, PLASTIC POP BOTTLES can be placed within an aquarium or terrarium in order to lower the temperature. However, this method, if used continuously in an aquatic habitat, can cause changes or fluctuations in the pH levels, as well as altering the overall temperature. pH can be affected depending on water volume and aquarium size. The larger the aquarium and the more water volume, will have substantially less impact, if any, on the pH levels. On the other hand, relatively small aquariums, or small bodies of water, will experience more drastic, more noticeable pH and temperature changes. This method is best used for temporary, otherwise minor temperature changes, and pH levels should be monitored regularly. Also keep in mind that during the hot and humid summer months, most generally when a cooling method is needed, frozen pop bottles or ice cubes as they thaw would need to be replenished almost constantly in order to keep a constant temperature and to avoid large fluctuations.  

Although not always cost efficient, due to the high power outage required, AIR CONDITIONERS are beneficial to both you and your newts. They are faster, easier and more convenient and a more constant temperature can be easier achieved. Air conditioner units can be set to a desired temperature and will automatically shut-off and turn on.

THERMOMETERS:

Thermometers are a vital item which must be used for your aquarium and humidity gauges for terrariums. These will greatly aid in controlling your temperatures. Thermometers come in a variety of styles and models. Some float on the surface, some are hung from the tanks rim and some are affixed to the inside of the tank via a suction cup. Thermometers give quick and easy temperature readings, in order to maintain a comfortable temperature for your newts and to monitor heat levels.