Set-up (from supernewt)
STEP 1: Setting Up Your TerrariumIt is best to decide ahead of time where the tank will be located. A suitable sized and sturdy stand should be used to properly support the weight of the tank. Smaller tanks are far easier to move around to various locations however, larger tanks pose more of a problem. Size and weight are an issue. It is best to set up your stand before-hand and position it where required prior to beginning. I have yet to purchase a stand for my terrarium so for now it rests on my bedroom dresser, which luckily enough is strong enough to support the weight and fits the tanks dimensions perfectly. Once the stand is in place, carefully position the tank onto it. You are now ready to begin.
STEP 2: Preparing Your Terrarium Even though your tank is new, it is best to properly prepare it before-hand to remove any dust or debris from shipping and/or storage. Again, never use soap, disinfectants or chemicals as this can leave behind traces, especially if not properly rinsed, thus causing harm to the future occupants. Luke warm or boiling water, if desired, is sufficient. Smaller tanks are far easier to prepare as the water can be easily dumped and re-rinsed. Larger tanks pose a more awkward task. Using buckets or dishes of water simply dump into the tank. Clean cloths or paper towels can be used to wipe the glass. As you can not physically lift the large tanks to dump the water, an absorbent towel or sponge is best to sop up the water, ringing it out into a nearby bucket. Once this process has been done 2 or 3 times you can move on.
STEP 3: Affixing The Background Not only do backgrounds add beauty to your terrarium but they also relieve stress to the newts and salamanders. The less open space they see, they more relaxed they can become. Backgrounds with nature scenes will create a more natural habitat for your caudate. Backgrounds can cover as many sides as preferred (not all 4 sides though), but I prefer to cover the rear wall and in some cases one side which happens to be in a corner of a room, facing or against a wall, leaving the other sides open for viewing. Buy backgrounds appropriately sized for you tank by measuring the height and length required before-hand. Center the background to your approval and tack with tape into place. Once you have it where required, simply tape all edges securely and trim off excess. Fair size extras can be saved for use on quarantine tanks, cricket enclosures etc....
STEP 4: The Dividers (Optional) This step may be omitted as it depends on whether or not you are sectioning your tank for multiple species or setting your terrarium up for a single specie. If you are utilizing the entire terrarium for one specie (mixing is not recommended) then you can skip steps 4 and 5. However, if you are constructing your terrarium into multiple sections, for more than one specie as I, then please follow through. As described above I will be housing 4 individual species of salamanders in my terrarium and due to this, will set the tank up with dividers. These cannot be purchased at any pet retailers with the exception of the flimsy, plastic fish dividers which will not work in this situation and are not as attractive either. Nor are they something you can easily make at home for yourself either unfortunately. To prevent stress on my salamanders I opted against siliconing a clear sheet of Plexiglas into the tank and instead thought of a viable method to use a background, in essence entirely separating the sections from each other. After repeated and failed attempts at using Plexiglas, I tried again with aid from a glass store. Plexiglas can warp and bend in humid/moist conditions over time, and it can not be sealed. Even a tiny pinhole will allow water and moisture to seep into the divider, causing damage to the background. I took my invention and ideas to a local glass shop where they were finally perfected. Using ordinary glass panes, the background was centered and a spaghetti seal was used in-between as the primary seal. Once dried, a secondary seal was applied around the outside edge, used to further prevent moisture inside the divider. All edges were sanded to prevent sharp edges which would scratch the glass tank when installing. The dimensions for the divider (s) and how many needed will depend entirely on your particular set up; how many sections required, how much space each specie requires or you wish to allow, the size of your tank etc... In my 65 gallon terrarium, I chose to house 4 species, therefore needing 3 dividers, sectioning the tank into approx. 1.5 square foot sections.
STEP 5: Installing The Dividers Again, this step will be omitted if not separating the tank. This is the challenging part of the set up. The less dividers, the easier the task....getting them into place, spaced properly, straight and then holding them securely to apply the silicone. Solution: Clamps and a measuring tape, possibly someone who is good with calculations is also advised. Keep in mind the inside and outside dimensions of your tank are different and you must also allow for the thickness of your divider (s). This can take some time. Once you are satisfied with the positioning of the divider (s) then clamp securely into place and tack the upper and lower portions with a dab of aquarium silicone and allow to fully cure, generally 24 hours. Only use aquarium silicone as it is specified for these tasks, is safe and non-toxic. It holds just as well as standard silicones from hardware stores but does not excrete acids as some do when wet. Once the silicone is fully cured, the clamps can be removed and the final seal applied. I opted to run the bead along the bottom and the back wall so the silicone is not visible, as it would be at the front. Grab your aquarium silicone. Gloves are nice to have on hand to prevent the sticky mess on your hands! By cutting the tip on a 45 degree angle easier allows the silicone to fill the gap. Run the bead along both sides of the divider (s), bottom and rear wall. Although there are many tools and gadgets available on the market, the easiest and cheapest method is to wet your finger and run it along the fresh bead. This not only pushes the silicone into the gap where needed, it removes excess silicone, fills in missed areas and also gives a smooth, even and flawless seam. Allow to cure again for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step.
STEP 6: Adding Your Substrate Your substrate or material used for a base for your terrarium is up to you. Strictly gravel can be used, but in this context we are setting the terrarium up as a living habitat and therefore I am using black earth soil, rich with nutrients for the plants, as well small worms and insects which will benefit the terrarium and the salamanders. 3 to 4 inches is best to allow for plant roots and growth. If common sense, proper hygiene and maintenance is followed then this substrate will pose no risk to the health of the occupants. I am looking into other methods of substrate set ups currently and will update as researched but another method that proves acceptable is to use an inch or two of standard aquarium gravel initially. A secondary layer of charcoal is recommended to help filter the water through the soil and keep it fresh. An inch layer is suitable. A fiberglass screen meshing used to separate the layers and a 2-3 inch layer of soil on top. This is in the experimental stage currently. STEP 7: Decorating Your Terrarium Over the years setting up various habitats, I have concluded that it is much easier to decorate your habitat not in steps, but all at once. Plants, and various decorations can always be added at later dates but for the initial set up having an idea ahead of time of the potential lay out and as many of those items available at this stage is best. Instead of planting your plants first, then moving onto the next object and determining its position a general idea, some imagination before-hand is easier and faster. In this terrarium, it will be set up as a completely living habitat....all natural, nothing manufactured or as little as possible.
To begin, live plants. Most garden centers carry a variety of small plants deemed "tropical terrarium" plants. Although our terrariums will not be tropical as caudates require cooler temperatures, most of these plants are suitable for this environment. Keep them watered, mist daily or every other day with a fine mist, remove dead leaves and standard aquarium fertilizer tablets are an excellent resource to have on-hand. Freshly planted plants should initially be fertilized to establish healthy roots and then fertilized every 2 to 4 months thereafter or when the plants begin to lose their healthy green color and/or appear droopy.
Next, to cover the soil. This is not necessary but I find salamanders will use the soil to burrow into and mainly because it can create a muddy mess, including your sallies which become little balls of mud :) Ground cover or various mosses can be purchased at most garden centers and grow easily in this moist habitat. It also creates a soft bed for the salamanders and is quite appealing to view. This will not be seen yet in my photos until spring.
Now the various decorations. Again, using natural products such as driftwood and rocks in combination with the plants will create a beautiful habitat.
The important item to add: a water source. Although the habitat will be kept moist for the plants, salamanders absorb moisture through their skin from their habitat. If the habitat is too dry, this can cause dehydration. An alternate water source is recommended. A small, shallow water area can be incorporated into the habitat or simple use of a reptile water dish is sufficient. I have even tried to incorporate a beach area in my terrarium. Not sure how it will fair against the salamanders, or how much mess it will make but it is an experiment for now :) Using a product called Repti-Sand or regular beach sand even, natural colour gravel and small rocks laid this around the water dish.
Now the fun part: Setting it all up. Again, the best method is to do it all at once with a good idea already in mind. Keep the plants in their pots and arrange them and all your decorations where desired and re-arrange until you have it set up to your liking. Remove the plants from their pots, dig a large hole half-way into your soil, plant and pack soil firmly around it. Water promptly and add a small portion of fertilizer tablet towards the roots. Place your rocks, driftwood etc....where desired and voila! Simple as 1-2-3.
Second Page
Depending upon the specie of newt chosen, the appropriate living environment must first be determined. Species including the Carpathian and the Crocodile or Emperor newt, are referred to as a terrestrial species, and thus require a land-based habitat, referred to as a terrarium. However, the majority of newt species including the Eastern, Japanese Fire Belly or Chinese Dwarf newt for example, are generally well adapted to a mainly aquatic existence. These species spend more of their time in the water than others, and some newts are even more or less completely aquatic. Keep in mind that some aquatic newts do prefer the land, it is not an uncommon occurrence. Just be sure there isn't an illness or water quality problem that may be preventing the newt from frequenting the water. Sometimes starting with a 50/50 water to land ratio is best to allow the newt ample time to adjust to the habitat and choose which area is more preferred. After a few months of adaptation you can adjust the habitat according to your newts' preference...raise or lower the water level, add more or less land areas. On the other hand, salamanders are mainly terrestrial in nature and require a terrarium habitat with the exception of a few species including axolotls, hellbenders and mudpuppies which are totally aquatic.
WARNING: Never use detergents or any cleansers to clean your aquarium or terrarium, as they can leave harmful, toxic residue behind. This would be absorbed through the newts' skin. Thoroughly rinse with warm water and a clean sponge instead.
Depending on the species respiration can be accomplished using 4 distinct methods: First, caudates thin, permeable skin allows oxygen to be absorbed directly into their system called cutaneaous respiration. Second, all species of newts poses lungs which function in much the same manner as our own, called pulmonary respiration. Third, is a process called buccopharnygeal respiration which is when oxygen is pumped in from the nares (similar to our nostrils) and is absorbed at the back of the mouth. Prominent chin vibrations or throat pulsations are frequently observed in caudates. A process similar to human respiration, inhaling and exhaling using our chest muscles. As the caudates chin expands or lowers, the nares open to allow oxygen in. When the throat pushes upwards the nares close, forcing oxygen back into the lungs. Some of that oxygen is absorbed at the back of the mouth. Fourth, is branchial respiration which is the use of gills as in the aquatic larval stage of most newts and salamanders.
TERRARIUMS:
This can be set up using a variety of materials. Keep in mind, cleaning becomes more difficult with a more complex layout, as you'll have to disturb the overall set up. A 2-3" layer of soil or aquarium gravel can be used for the substrate. Gravel can be more economical as soil will periodically need to be replaced in sections due to the absorption of ammonia. However, gravel will also need to be removed and rinsed of wastes and debris occasionally. Another alternative to soil or gravel are products such as Zoo Meds Eco Earth and Exo Terra's Plantation Soil. Made from compressed coconut fibres, the bricks quickly expand in water and creates an excellent substrate ideal for burrowing species! Occasionally replace sections of soil with new. Covering the gravel, or soil, with moss such as terrarium or carpet moss, creates a pleasing set up to the eye and a soft, warm and natural environment for your newts and salamanders. A great product is Exo Terra's Forest Moss. A compressed brick of natural moss that expands quickly in water. Leaves can also be added for a more natural appearance. After arranging the moss, adding rocks, driftwood and plants provide shelter and hiding places, for a more natural look. Using a small spray bottle, with a fine mist, periodically spray the moss in order to prevent drying. Moss should be kept moist, but not wet. A very shallow water area should be incorporated into your terrarium, or a water bowl can also be used, as all species require a certain amount of water for survival. Be certain that the water area is shallow enough that the newts can easily access or exit. This can be done by constructing a sloping bank or, when using a bowl, placing sticks or rocks into it. Terrestrial species are generally not good swimmers, and must be able to exit the water easily, or they may exhaust themselves trying to get out and could drown. This also applies to terrestrial species housed improperly in deep water with no access to dry land. For step-by-step instructions on how to set up a live terrarium with pictures please click here.
One type of terrarium moss available.
VIVARIUM OR AQUARIUM:
This set up should be composed mainly of water, I prefer 3/4 water and 1/4 land area. Gravel used should be too large to be swallowed, and avoid sharp or rough edges that could injure your newts. Smooth, rounded stones are preferable. Always pre-rinse new gravel several times, and then place 2-3 inches onto the bottom of the aquarium. Even after several rinses, new gravel will retain a certain amount of residue or dust, and can cause the water to become cloudy. Although this takes away from the appearance of the aquarium, it is not harmful to the newts and eventually will be filtered out or removed during partial water changes. Always include a small land area, or more if desired, for the newts to emerge on, as they do require easy access to a terrestrial area. This species of newt will exit the water as needed, and at different times. The amount of time spent on land depends on the individual. Plexiglas ledges can be constructed, and gravel affixed to the surface using aquarium silicone, to allow for easier access and a non-slippery surface. Ready-made gravel or plastic ledges can also be purchased at some pet stores. Ledges are recommended because they can be conveniently adjusted to all water levels and easily removed for cleaning. Water should not cover the ledge, but stop at the base for easy access. These can be covered with moss for added comfort. Placing a cave or small tree with plants provides shelter and resting areas. Rocks can be piled in a corner, breaking the surface of the water and driftwood can be added. Floating items, such as lily pads, and other floating plants can be purchased in pet stores and also used for adequate land areas. A filter system should be used (see Filtration section) and regular maintenance performed (see Care section).
Front and side view of hand-made ledges.
NOTE: Newts and salamanders do not drink water as we do in order to retain moisture, therefore preventing dehydration. Instead, caudates accomplish this by drawing moisture from their surroundings and absorbing it directly through their porous skin. This is why moisture in the habitat is essential. All habitats, terrestrial or aquatic must posses moist/wet areas as it is vital to their survival. Without this necessity, they will dehydrate and perish.
STAND:
Once filled, the aquarium will be heavy, so it is best to determine where you are going to place it before-hand. Assemble the aquarium on a stand suitable to the size of tank, and that can support the weight, without warping or bending. It must be supported on all four corners so that the aquarium doesn't crack or leak. Level the stand to be sure it's sturdy and does not wobble. Standard-made manufacturer aquarium stands are designed to properly support the weight, and are highly recommended. Never place the stand directly beside extreme heat or cold sources, as this will cause the temperature to fluctuate rapidly, and never above anything electrical that can cause fire or be damaged by accidental water spills. If sunlight hits the glass of an aquarium, this will promote the unsightly growth of algae. Although harmless to the newts, it will make for harder and more frequent maintenance. This can easily be prevented by re-locating the aquarium away from the path of direct sunlight, by leaving curtains or blinds closed or by covering the window. NEVER use chemicals or any algae destroying products. Most algae destroying products state on the side label: "Harmful if absorbed through the skin". Therefore, these products would be harmful, perhaps even fatal to the newts, as newts' skin is porous and everything is absorbed through it; water, oxygen and therefore any associated chemicals as well.
DECORATIONS:
Decorations can be added, but purchased at a pet store to ensure they are constructed of non-toxic materials. Some plastic and silk decorations are constructed using internal supports. Years ago, these internal supports were made of wire and when introduced into an aquatic situation, the wire would rust, causing high lead levels in the habitat. However, these can no longer be obtained. Supports are used in most artificial plants today, however they are constructed using a non-toxic lead-based material which is completely safe for use in any situation; aquatic or terrestrial. Any ornaments constructed of plastic or plexiglas, is also safe for aquarium use. Soaking in warm water briefly will remove any dust accumulated from sitting on store shelves, never use chemicals or any cleansers. Besides plastic or silk, live plants are also a consideration for decorating your aquarium or terrarium. There is no right or wrong answer, it comes down to a matter of personal taste and choice.
LIVE PLANTS provide a more natural habitat for newts. They also absorb some of the wastes produced such as ammonia, thus contributing to a healthy environment, as well can aid in purifying and oxygenating the water. However, decaying plants must be promptly removed or can produce harmful wastes. In order to maintain health and growth, fertilizer tablets such as Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Root Tabs or liquid fertilizers such as Nutrafin Plant Gro are suggested. It may be possible for live plants to bring in pests such as snails and worms. Sometimes the plants can introduce parasites which may cause disease. Purchasing plants from pet stores can greatly reduce the risk. Live plants also require a good lighting source, and newts do not require long periods of light. Depending on the lighting source used, it could produce too much heat for the newts, causing stress if the lights are left on for long periods of time. Choosing a florescent plant growth bulb will benefit both the plants and newts, as well reducing the possibility of heating the tank. If using the undergravel filter system, live plants must be kept to a minimum as the roots will grow into the plates and can clog the filter, thus hindering its performance.
ARTIFICIAL PLANTS, either silk or plastic, are readily available in a variety of colors, designs and sizes. Artificial plants are also constructed of non-toxic materials and free of parasites or pests. Unlike live plants, they do not decay and therefore will not pollute the tank or grow too large. If artificial plants become dirtythey are easily removed and cleaned. If required, live plants can be difficult to clean without damaging them. Artificial plants do not require lighting or special care.
Driftwood is a nice addition and available in the reptile section of pet stores. These manufactured woods are safe and guaranteed free of parasites and bacteria. Wood found in the wild is not recommended, as bacteria and parasites can burrow deep into the wood and cannot be sterilized out. Rocks however, can be cleaned and sterilized by placing in a pot of boiling water for a good ten minutes, to prevent the spread of diseases. NEVER use any toxic cleaning chemical such as bleach or disinfectants on wood or other porous materials, as these will soak into the wood. Even frequent soakings can still retain a certain amount of the chemical, and will seep out into the water over time. Even though large bodies of water allow for some dissipation, this can still be detrimental to the newts' health as again, these chemicals would be absorbed through the skin. Small bodies of water are even more harmful, even fatal.
Various backgrounds can also be purchased, and are highly recommended. These are available in various heights to fit your aquarium, and are easy to cut and install. Newts will become stressed if too much open space is exposed. Backgrounds with pictures of rocks and trees will make your newts feel more at "home" by producing a more natural appearance.
COVER:
Newts can easily climb up the sides of glass and escape through even the smallest of cracks, so a secure cover is a must. Newts can't survive long on the floor and will perish before long. There are a few choices of covers to choose from including canopies, glass and screens, all of which work well.
The canopy provides a built-in light for the aquarium or terrarium and some heat, depending on the type of bulb used, whereas the others require an alternate lighting source. The front flap(s) should be left open and a screen custom-fitted to the opening to allow for adequate ventilation and to prevent the newts from escaping as well. The majority of canopy covers are equipped with a plastic section at the rear. A series of small holes can be drilled throughout to provide sufficient ventilation and increase air circulation. However, the opening of the canopies are small, which makes cleaning quite difficult. Removal of the canopies can be awkward, heavy on larger tanks, and inconvenient.
Glass covers tends to be fairly heavy, and water will splash onto the glass, leaving a hard water film. Cleaning becomes more frequent and difficult in order to remove the build-up. Keep in mind that if a heavy object is dropped onto the glass cover, causing it to shatter, it would send shards of glass directly into the tank. Glass covers only allow for minimal ventilation and can keep the tank humid. This can be useful for newts, especially terrestrial species (terrariums), as dry substrates will draw water out of the body, thus causing the newt to dehydrate. The humidity will help prevent this from occurring. Humidity levels must be kept low to moderate only. This retention in moisture and humidity is essential in preventing the substrate from drying out. The main concern is the increase in temperature, as this can cause stress to the newts. Due to the minimal ventilation, hot summer months can raise the temperature substantially, especially when using a lighting system. However, most glass covers are equipped with a plastic section at the rear. A series of small holes can be drilled throughout to provide sufficient ventilation and increase air circulation, thus reducing the chance of the growth of moulds and fungi and helps keep the temperature lower.
Plexiglas covers are preferred over glass. They are light weight, with no chance of breakage.
This may be when screen covers can come in handy. These are lightweight and quickly and easily removed. Constructing your own using materials purchased from local hardware stores are not only more economical, but can also be custom-made to the size and dimensions of your aquarium or terrarium. However, be aware if using a screen cover on a terrestrial habitat, the risk of drying out the substrate drastically increases. Also, if using moss in the terrarium and a screen cover, be sure to mist periodically using a spray bottle of water to keep moist, as a dry substrate will draw moisture from the newts' body. To prevent this from occurring, constructing a plexiglas/screen combo cover is recommended in a terrarium situation. Full screen covers also allow for maximum ventilation. These may be more practical than a full glass or canopy cover in most situations.
LIGHTING:
Not necessarily needed for newts, as they do not bask under the light as reptiles, nor do they require lighting in order to obtain vitamin D and other nutrient intakes. Lighting systems for newt habitats are used mainly for pleasure, to accent your aquarium or terrarium. They not only add beauty, but can also be used to assist in breeding. Regardless of the type of bulb used, the lighting system should only be used a maximum of 6-8 hours a day. Thus creating a day and night cycle. A natural habitat, as well as photo period, should be mimicked as much as possible in the captive environment. Timers can also be used in order to easier achieve this period of "day and night".
There are two types of lighting available:
INCANDESCENT produces a bright, yellow light. These bulbs, if used, should be placed at least 10 inches to a foot above the water level or enclosure. Incandescent bulbs become quite hot quickly, therefore heating the water and will dry out the air and substrate if left on for long periods of time. The bulbs must also be housed in a sealed unit in order to prevent the newts from being able to come in direct contact with the bulbs, thus causing burns and sores.
Incandescent bulbs need to be changed every 6 months regardless of use, needed or not. This is due to the fact that the spectrum of the light will change and promotes the growth of algae. This is hastened with the combination of the incandescent bulb and direct sunlight hitting the aquarium walls.
FLORESCENT produces a cool, white light that is as close to natural sunlight as possible in a captive environment. These generate less heat, thus preventing the risk of burns and high water temperatures. These also have a longer life than incandescent and are only required to be replaced every few years. There are many selections of specialty bulbs to choose from, all with various light spectrums: for less or more intensity, to change the UV rays and even bulbs that promote and stimulate plant growth.
It is still best to house the bulbs in a sealed unit and some distance from the enclosure. Not out of concern for burns, but as a safety measure to prevent the newts from coming into contact with the bulbs and most importantly, the electrical wiring, resulting in possible shock.
